If you have been following me on social media you have likely noticed that I am in the process of converting my brewery over to all electric. The motivation behind this change has many factors.

Number 1 is that I am sick and tired of schlepping propane tanks around. I don’t like having to include this errand before every other brew day. I get demoralized when I have to stand in front of that orange cage at Home Depot in the snow or rain waiting for someone to come out of the store to hand me a tank. Getting them filled at a local rental store has been a bit more enjoyable, but I still dislike having to go out of my way for this.

Number 2 is safety and environment. I brew indoors with a serious industrial fan and a vent hood that provides more than adequate ventilation. I also have a CO monitor to ensure the ventilation is working properly. But at the end of the day it is a bit nerve racking running propane burners indoors. Electric elements, when wired properly with grounding and GFCI breakers, are definitely going to be safer. The burners and fan are also very loud. Electric brewing is practically silent and I will be able to dial the fan down to simply remove the steam.

Number 3 is automation. I use the Brew Control System (BCS) 462 which has PID control built in. By using the PID functions I will be able to more accurately automate and control electric elements vs. propane burners.

Number 4 is Cost. I rip through half of a 20lb tank for each brew session, a bit more for a 15 gallon batch. That is roughly $11.50 in propane per batch. For my proposed electric design let’s assume the following:

  • Run two 5500 watt elements at full power for 30 min to get my strike and sparge water up to temp.
  • Run one 5500 watt element at ½ power for 1.5 hr during the mash and sparge.
  • Run one 5500 watt element at full power for 1 hr during the boil.

This would result in essentially 3 hours at full power. At a $0.14 per kWh cost, that would equal $2.31 per batch or about a $9 savings. Multiply that by 20 batches per year and that works out to about $180. That amount certainly doesn’t justify the overall cost of a switch over but when combined with the other factors, it’s a home run. Additionally, I am in the process of installing a 10.92 kW solar array on my property which will offset my entire electric bill, thus making my brewery solar powered and electricity practically free (not factoring in the cost of the array).

My approach to the design of my electric rig takes inspiration from a few builds that are well documented online. They include eBrew Supply, The Electric Brewery, and a thread on Homebrewtalk.com by user JonW. Jon is a BCS power user and a great inspiration for my approach to controlling March/Chugger pumps along with automated mechanical ball valves. Ryan over at eBrew Supply has an amazing amount of information available about panel wiring to use the BCS to control all the various systems. The Electric Brewery was great inspiration for how to plumb the kettles. Ultimately I am building a system that draws from, and builds on, elements of each of these designs.

Stay tuned to hungusbrews.com for updates as I work through this system build out.

When fermenting a batch of beer we often times find ourselves wondering when fermentation will be finished. We have expectations of how our yeast will perform based on an attenuation range for our selected yeast strain but there are many other variables at play. Your wort composition and yeast health will vary from batch to batch and estimations of final gravity are exactly that. A quick and easy test that can be performed at the beginning of fermentation is called the forced ferment test also known as the limit of attenuation test or the fast ferment test.

The theory behind the forced ferment test is simple. Take a small sample of the pitched wort you created and place it on a stir plate in a warm location. Only enough wort is needed to take a hydrometer reading. The constant oxygenation and warm temperature significantly speed up the fermentation of this small sample of wort. Fermentation can be done is as little as one day but will most likely be completed well before the primary batch is finished. The final gravity that is measured at the end of this test can be considered to be the lowest your primary batch will reach. Usually the actual final gravity of the primary batch is a point or two higher.

Performing the fast ferment test will ease any worries you may have about wort fermentability. The FFT can also help you make decisions in the fermentation process. Planning on dry hopping near the end of fermentation or beginning a diacetyl rest? The forced ferment test will tell you where that end is. It is also a good indicator of contamination in the primary batch. If the FG ends up under the FFT then you can be pretty sure that some wild yeast or bacteria got into the fermentor.

I try to perform this test for every batch and it really helps alleviate some of the guess work. For example, I recently brewed a stout that I expected to finish with a final gravity of around 1.012. After performing the FFT it only actually finished at 1.017. I then knew that I created a wort that was not as fermentable as I had hoped, likely due to an excessive amount of flaked barley. If I did not have this information I would have been worried when my primary batch finished at 1.018.

Below is a series of photos with instructions under each explaining the process I use and variations for other brewing equipment.


Clean and sanitize a small flask. I like to use a 250mL Erlenmeyer Flask with a small stir bar. Ideally you would run this through an autoclave or a pressure cooker to sterilize but a good soaking in starsan will suffice. Cover the lid with a small piece of sanitized aluminum foil. You could also use any other small container that will work on a stir plate. I suppose a mason jar might even do the trick. Just make sure it is clean and sanitized.


Here is the step where I am a bit spoiled. Pulling a small sample from the conical racking arm is very easy. I sanitize the triclover barb, flame the tip with a small torch, and use the foil from the flask to cover the opening.


Pull a small sample. You only need enough to be able to obtain a gravity reading once the FFT is completed. I generally shoot for 150mL. If you do not have a conical, you can simply divert this small amount of wort into the flask when you are filling from your kettle. You could also use a wine thief similar to how you would take normal readings from a carboy or bucket. Just take precautions to be as sterile as possible. Any small amount of wild yeast or bacteria can skew the results.


Here you can see the small sample pulled from the conical on the left. The 2000mL flask on the right contains my pitch of yeast for the primary batch which has already had the starter beer decanted off. This is a key point where my approach differs from published methods which instruct pitching the yeast and THEN pulling your sample. I like to pull my sample from my oxygenated wort and then pitch yeast into my sample. I’ll explain this process below.


Flame the opening of your sample. If you do not have a bunsen burner, a small alcohol lamp or even a candle can work. This is the best method to attempt to make the transfer without picking up any wild yeast or bacteria. If you do not have any of these flame sources, use a lighter to flame the opening and make the transfer in a draft free room. Notice that the 2000mL flask is empty as it has been pitched into the primary batch.


Even after pitching into the primary batch, there are always some dregs leftover that do not pour out. There is an amazing amount of yeast in those dregs, enough that you will be overpitching your small 150mL sample. Pour the sample into the dregs from your yeast starter after flaming the lip. If you are pitching directly from a vial or smack pack, you can pour you sample into that as well.


Give the small sample in the large flask a good stir and then pour back into your small flask. You will notice the frothy head that transfers back. That is all of your yeasty goodness. Briefly flame the opening of the small flask and the aluminium foil and cap loosely.


Place your sample on a stir plate and let it rip. You do not need a huge vortex for the FFT (or any starter for that matter), just a small dimple on the surface. This is plenty to dissolve the needed oxygen into solution. Ideally you want to place this in a warm location or even an incubator at 80°F if you have access to one. In the winter I usually put my starters on top of my refrigerator.


After a day or so you will notice significant yeast growth and the FFT will start to turn a milky color.


Once fermentation has completed, shut off you stir plate and let the yeast settle to the bottom. Look at all that yeast! If you are making another beer with this same strain, you could use this to step into another starter, especially if you took precautions to be as sterile as possible.


Pour you FFT into you hydrometer test tube and take a gravity reading. Note that 150mL is just enough to get an accurate reading. If you expect the FG to be well below 1.010 you may want to take 200mL at the beginning to be safe.


And finally a shot of the reading. Go ahead and taste the FFT beer but do not be alarmed when it tastes oxidized/papery/yeasty/harsh. This pale ale ended up finishing just a touch over 1.011. This means I can expect the primary beer to at least hit an FG of 1.013. I plan on dry hopping directly in the fermentor with only 4 gravity points (1°P) left to ferment so I now know that when I get a reading of around 1.017 I should be good to go.

So there is my method for performing the FFT. I think if you can find a way to work this into your brewing routine you will be amazed at the information you can gather from this simple test. Feel free to comment below with questions/comments or lay out a method you may use for the FFT. Cheers!

Just Married

Nearly every home brewer that is planning a wedding wants to involve their own beer in one way or another. There are multiple approaches to achieving this goal including handing out parting gifts to their guests, special keg tappings at some point in the evening, or simply using a homebrewed beer for the toast. Me? I of course had to take it one step further and decided to only serve beer that I brewed myself to our 220 guests. Very quickly I realized that this was going to be quite an undertaking and set out to create a plan. Step one was to decide how much beer I would need and what styles I was going to brew. Step two was to brew all that beer! Step three was to determine how to make the bars “plug and play” to serve all of that beer at once without my assistance. Step four was to determine the equipment needed and then make, buy, or borrow all of it. Finally step five was execution and getting all the beer in place for the wedding.

The bar in full swing

Step 1: The caterers recommended that we stock at least two bars. At first I wanted to stock both bars with the same 4 styles so that each bar was the same. After some prodding from friends I decided to do 8 different styles and put 4 at each bar. The reason we chose 4 at each bar was because my friend Todd and I built matching jockey boxes with 4 faucets in each. I called one bar “America” and the other “Europe” so that helped determine what styles would be brewed. Choosing to bring 8 different styles was a potentially risky decision. Having to nail 8 different recipes, with different yeasts, and aging requirements would prove to be very challenging. I only went for this because I felt confident in my brewing skills and most of the recipes had been tried out before. If you are new to brewing and cannot achieve repeatability, it may be wiser to stick to fewer styles. After making that decision, next was to determine quantities of each style and brewing schedule. I know everyone loves IPA’s and lagers so I brewed the most of those. Here is how it all broke down:

1st – American Stout – 1 – 10 gal batch
2nd – English Brown – 1 – 15 gal batch
3rd/5th – Oktoberfest – 2 – 10 gal batches
4th – Saison – 1 – 10 gal batch
6th – American Pale – 1 -15 gal batch
7th – American Amber – 1- 15 gal batch
8th/9th – IPA – 2 – 15 gal batches
10th – Hefeweizen – 1 – 15 gal batch

I knew there would be extra beer but I didn’t want taps to start kicking which would make people switch to styles they would not enjoy. This volume worked out to 0.59 gallons per person and at the end of the wedding we finished about 100 gallons or 0.45 gal per person. This was even with a full open bar including wine.

Close up of the tap handles

Step 2: I pretty much spent all summer brewing these batches and getting them into kegs, many of which were borrowed from friends. Once all the beer was brewed the challenge wasn’t complete. I had to get all of the kegs cold and carbonated. I pulled my two big fermentors out of their upright freezers and was able to fit 11 kegs in the large upright and 5 in the smaller one. I also fit 10 kegs in my lagering fridge, and then put the final 2 in my kegerator. Being able to keep the kegs cold right up until the day I brought them to the venue was integral to the successful serving at the proper temperature. I cannot stress enough that it is very easy to lose these beers in the cellar and it would have been very embarrassing to serve flat beer. I spent three weeks leading up to the wedding getting all these kegs carbonated and tasting to ensure all the beer was up to par.

Large Upright with 11 kegs conditioning

Step 3: It was very important that this setup run smoothly without the need to continually change kegs. On your wedding day you will not have time to teach this to the bartenders and you will not have time to do this yourself. The goal was to set the kegs up so that the bar tenders could pull the faucet until it blew foam. This was accomplished by “jumping” the kegs of the same style together. A jumper was simply a short length of tubing, generally 1 ft or less, connected to a beverage and a gas disconnect on each end. By connecting the “beverage out” post to the “gas in” post, you could essentially make one large keg. To set this up you connect the last keg to the gas, then jump it to the remaining kegs of that style until the last beverage line went to the faucet. Next you systematically purge the air from the relief valve from the first keg backward to the last until beer starts coming out the relief. When the tap handle is pulled, gas is pushed into the last keg, moving beer forward through the kegs until there is no beer left. As the kegs empty, the last ones just fill with CO2 while the ones closest to the faucet remain full of beer.

Keg Jumpers

To help the cold plates work most efficiently, I had the jockey boxes setup with hoses pressed into the drain plugs to continually remove the cold water into a bucket and keep the plates on ice. To keep the cold plates form working overtime, I made 28 keg cozy’s from reflectix insulation which would help keep the beer cold once I took them out of the refrigerators. Wrapping the kegs with reflectix had a profound effect and the kegs with beer left in them were all still cold two days later! In fact, the reflectix worked so well, the jockey boxes did not need to be re-iced during the entire wedding.

Mobile Draft Tool Box

Step 4: Now that the plans were in place, it was time to start acquiring all of the support equipment. I borrowed kegs and quick disconnects from 5 different homebrewing friends (thanks Tim, Tom, Todd, Adrien, and Boyer!) I made the 16 beverage to gas jumpers which was a tedious task and set up two 4 way gas manifolds to distribute the CO2. I created a tool box in an ammo can containing tools that could be used to fix any hardware problems. This included wrenches, a faucet wrench, spare tap handles, tape, flashlight, hose clamps, sharpies, extra QD’s, screw driver, etc, I also emailed the caterers photos of three home brewers that would be in attendance that could address any issues since I would not have time. My friend Luke made me 8 custom tap handles turned from native Appalachian woods. My friend Dan made me matching custom wood facades so the guests would not see the cooler jockey boxes. I ordered custom 16oz Belgian beer glasses as gifts for all of the guests. This served a few purposes, it was a gift for everyone, cut down on rental expenses, and provided a much more enjoyable experience than drinking out of a lame pint glass. Lastly, I asked the caterer to provide a cooler of water to act as a rinse station.

Pickup ruck loaded with serving equipment

Step 5: The day before the wedding was when it came time to move the kegs into position and execute the plans. With the help of a few friends, we pulled the 28 kegs out of the refrigerator and immediately put the cozy’s on them. We loaded up the truck with all of the CO2 tanks (including two backups), kegs, and jockey boxes. Once on site we moved all kegs to their respective bars and began jumping them all together and then connecting the gas and faucets. Once all the lines were hooked up, we purged the excess headspace in the forward kegs and tested their operation. As you pulled the faucet you could easily see the beer moving through the jumpers. Each bank of kegs got an additional wrap of reflectix to help keep even more heat out. We then put the bar tables over the bank of kegs and covered everything with the table cloths. By doing this you could not see any kegs, CO2 tanks, or jockey boxes. It just appeared as if there were 4 magical tap handles in the middle of the room that poured endless beer. We turned off the CO2 for the evening so to not overcarbonate the beers. Jumping these kegs together and pushing the beer through the cold plate required about 25psi of pressure to get a good steady pour.

Keg bank jumped together and insulated

View of the drain bucket and kegs tucked under the table

A month before the wedding I decided to stock a dessert bar with two sour beers that I had been aging along with some whiskey and cigars. I borrowed a third jockey box from my friend Tom and had the caterer set this up after dinner. I had 5 gallons of a blonde sour aged with East Coast Yeast Bug County and another 5 gallons of a Saison aged with Brettanomyces Naardenensis.

Sour Beer Bar

During the wedding all of the serving went off without a hitch. The beer stayed cold and was all well carbonated. Only the Blonde sour and the Saison kicked. The servers from Salt Gastropub Events took pride in presenting a good pour and rinsed the glasses each time. I was even able to give them the Hefeweizen, Saison, and Oktoberfest in 22oz bottles to cook some of the food for the evening! At the end of the wedding we drank about 100 of the 140 gallons I brought. When I broke everything down the next morning any kegs with beer in them were actually still cold. The reflectix was really a game changer and ensured all of the beer stayed cold. The only issue that had to be dealt with on the fly was a low serving pressure. Luckily the homebrewers in attendance noticed this and fixed the issue easily. At the end of the night they even remembered to turn off the CO2 to not overcarbonate the beer that was left. RJE photo did an excellent job capturing the big day and were nothing but professional.

HungusDrinks Inspecting the Brews Custom Glassware

Planning on doing something like this for your wedding or have any questions? Feel free to leave comments below and be sure to subscribe to hungusbrews.com to get these posts in your inbox.

Water chemistry was always one of those aspects of brewing that I thought was too advanced for me. I would always tell myself “I’ll get to that eventually” and just kept on brewing without giving it a second thought. My beer was alright but certain styles just didn’t seem to be as crisp or clean as they should be. Finally one day I decided to take the leap and start learning about water adjustments. So where did I start? Bru’n Water!

LaMotte BrewLab Case


Martin Brungard (now a member of the AHA governing committee) came up with a very user friendly spreadsheet that allows you to enter your water parameters and then make real time adjustments tailored to any beer style. His first sheet in the workbook has some excellent explanations of how and why you should adjust different aspects of your water. It goes over the sulfate to chloride ratio, acidifying your sparge water, adjusting for mash pH, calcium levels, and countless other parameters to check. The best part is that all of this is free! You can donate to him via paypal and you will receive an even more user friendly workbook. If you like his product I highly recommend a donation!

In order to begin making adjustments to your water you need to know what your water parameters are to begin with. You 100% cannot begin adding salts or acids unless you know what you are working with. Even if you buy bottled water from the store you do not know the alkalinity, pH, calcium, sulfate, chlorite, etc of that water unless it is distilled or RO. This is where the LaMotte BrewLab comes into play. Before I found the BrewLab I used services of Ward Labs. They are a great resource for brewers but the costs can add up. It is $40 for the full test plus you have to pay for shipping. The BrewLab is good for at least 50 tests and costs $125 before shipping. That works out to $2.50 per test. While Ward Labs gives you results that are much more precise, the BrewLab gets you in the ballpark which is good enough (if not better) for our purposes.

LaMotte BrewLab Organization

When playing with Bru’n Water you should not be concerned with + or – a few ppm. All of these numbers are just guides to get you within a range. In reality your source water changes frequently and a test performed in Spring may read significantly different than a test performed in the Fall. Road Salt alone can have a huge affect on the Sodium and Chloride levels. That is why it is valuable to perform frequent water tests. Some professional breweries do this daily!

The BrewLab contains the following tests: Total Hardness, Calcium Hardness, Chloride, Sulfate, and Total Alkalinity. You can then take these values and calculate: Magnesium Hardness, Magnesium, Calcium, Sodium, Bicarbonate, and Residual Alkalinity. These are all the major ions you need in order to adjust water for flavor and pH. The BrewLab Plus comes with a pH meter. I use the BrewLab basic since I already had a pH meter.

The first test is for total hardness which consists of three steps. You fill one of their test tubes to the 10ppm level, add 5 drops of hardness reagent #5, and then add a hardness reagent tablet #6. Once the tables is dissolved you start adding and counting drops of hardness reagent #7. Each drop equals 10 ppm until the solution changes from red to blue.

Hardness Test Step 1 Hardness Test Step 2 Hardness Test Pre Reagent Hardness Test Reagent Drops Hardness Test Color Change

The next test is to determine calcium hardness. Using the same test tube you fill it to the 10ppm level and add 6 drops of sodium hydroxide reagent. Then you add a calcium hardness tablet and swirl to dissolve. Using the hardness reagent #7 again you add and count drops. Each drop equals 10ppm. Once you have this value you can calculate the magnesium hardness by subtracting the calcium hardness from the total hardness. Using multiplication factors you then can calculate the calcium and magnesium levels.

Calcium Hardness Test Step 1 Calcium Hardness Test Step 2 Calcium Hardness Test

The next two tests are for the individual chloride and sulfate ions. The chloride test uses a different test tube with a 25ml sample. You add 5 drops of chloride reagent A which turns the solution yellow. Next you add and count drops of silver nitrate until the solution turns orange-brown. Each drop equals 10ppm. For the sulfate test you use the same tube with a 5 ml sample. You add a sulfate turb tablet and shake until it dissolves. You then immediately place the tube on the target to see how cloudy the sample is. This test is the only one that I feel is not precise enough as it has a 50ppm resolution. This will get you in a range though and you can use the bru’n water spreadsheet to help approximate what the level should be between your observed range.

Chloride Test Before Change Chloride Test After ChangeSulfate TestSulfate Turbidity Test

The last BrewLab test is for total alkalinity. Using the same test tube as the previous two tests with a 25ml sample, you add three drops of the total alkalinity indicator and swirl until the sample turns green. You then add and count drops of sulfuric acid until the solution turns red. Each drop equals 10ppm. The bicarbonate, residual alkalinity, and sodium can then be calculated once this value is obtained.

Total Alkalinity Test Total Alkalinity Test Post Change

The final thing to test is your pH. Using a calibrated and well maintained pH meter you easily measure your sample. I had some evil water the day I was running these tests.

Devil Water

Devil Water

The BrewLab is easy and intuitive to use and gives the home brewer valuable water parameters that can be confidently used to adjust your water. A good way to offset the price tag is to offer tests to your home-brew club. I have been doing this for my club with positive reviews so far. Once the kit is paid of you can use it as a club fundraiser.

Hungus Driling HolesFinished FrontIt is a bit embarrassing that it has taken me this long to finally invest in a jockey box. I would just always fight with keeping the keg cold and using a picnic faucet. While that works well, to serve multiple kegs of homebrew, a jockey box cannot be beat.  A jockey box is basically a cooler (or other insulated container) with draft faucets mounted onto it. There are two general methods of cooling beer inline which is either through a cold plate or a stainless steel coil. There are pros and cons to both methods. A cold plate is cheaper when running more than one faucet but does not have the same cooling power as a coil. Stainless steel coils have much more cooling power but are significantly more expensive and require a larger cooler for multiple lines. The coils can be built to different lengths to give more cooling power. A 50 ft coil has more cooling power than a plate but a 120 ft coil can continuously bring a keg at room temperature down to below 40 degrees. Generally the cooling length in a plate is 18 ft. Basically the longer the cooling line the warmer the keg can be. A keg through a cold plate should be in the 50’s, a keg through a 50 ft coil should be in the low 60’s, a keg through a 75 ft coil can be in the high 60’s, and a keg through a 120 ft coil can be room temp (or warmer but then you risk beer staling). Obviously this is just a rule of thumb and depends on the rate of pour. If you are constantly pulling that handle than the keg should be as cool as possible. If you are sporadically pouring beers then the beer has some more time to sit in the cooling lines.

There are specific ways to manage the ice/water in these two different cooling methods. When using a cold plate you should continuously drain the water and ensure that only ice is in contact with the plate for maximum cooling. This ensures the water that has been warmed by the beer is drained away and replaced with ice. When using the stainless coils, you should use ice water to ensure full contact on the lines. You can even add some salt to the water to lower the freezing temperature. Serving pressure also varies on the two different systems. Basically the longer the line length the more pressure you need to serve. This is not an issue, but you should be sure to turn the gas off or down if letting the keg sit over night. A common mistake when operating jockey boxes that are having foam issues is to turn the pressure down. Often times the solution is to turn the pressure UP.

Coolers pre modificationHoles DrilledSince I wanted a four faucet jockey box, I decided to go with a plate for cost and size purposes. My friend Todd built a mirror image version with me so that we can use this at homebrew club events for a uniform 8 faucets. These will also be used at my wedding in September! I started with a coleman cooler that was chosen because it has a drain plug and wheels. The first step was drilling the holes for the four faucet shanks on the front of the cooler. We used duct tape to ensure we were drilling along the same centerline and spaced the holes evenly apart. Once their positions were all marked up we used a 7/8″ hole saw to make the cuts. It cut through with ease. After the front was done it was time to move onto the back of theRear Pass Through Shanks cooler. We needed to make four more holes to mount the plastic pass through shanks. We decided to use these so that the beer line could be pushed back into the Rear Pass Through Shankscooler during transport. It also saved us a bunch of money over threaded shanks. Initially we wanted to mount the four plastic shanks along the top rear of the cooler, but realized that they were not as long needed and the plastic between the handle was thicker. This forced us to drill two holes on either side.

After all 8 holes were drilled we mounted the shanks. We were able to use rubber gaskets on the faucet shanks inside the cooler, but not on the plastic. I am going to look into getting longer plastic shanks in the future. This actually forced us to mount the internal nuts backwards so that the thread would catch. It looks a little silly but will get the job done for now. Next up was dropping in the cold plate and hooking up all of the tubing. I screwed the flare barbed fittings into the plate. There was no need to use teflon tapeFinished Inside since the flare came with plastic gaskets similar to how the keg quick disconnects work. We used 30″ of tubing to connect the out side of the plate to the nipple shanks Finished Inside with beer line pushed inand chose this length simply to facilitate cleaning. This would allow us to pull the plate out of the cooler. For the beer lines from the kegs we used 6ft of tubing to ensure there was plenty of line to reach kegs underneath a table. All of the beer line was 3/16″ internal diameter.

All of the gas connections are pretty standard so I won’t go into details about that. I plan on using a 4 way gas manifold from a 20lb co2 tank to run the kegs. Lastly I cut apart an old refrigerator wire shelf and bent it in half to make a stand that can hold the plate off of the bottom of the cooler. This will allow me to pack ice underneath and let the water drain out.

I purchased the cold plate from Soda Dispenser Depot. They seemed to have a pretty good price and it came with the barbs. The shanks and tap handles I purchased from Micromatic and the faucets, quick disconnects, and beverage line came from Adventurers in Homebrewing. The total cost with shipping for the entire setup was approximately $480. The real cost was a bit less since I already had the QD’s and two of the faucets.
Finished Rear

So I think I have a pretty worthy jockey box here. Wire rack to keep plate off bottomHopefully the plate will be able to chill my kegs fast enough. Follow me on Facebook and Twitter next friday night for its first test drive at the National Homebrew Competition Club night.