American Pale Ale (APA) is probably one of the most widely brewed styles for homebrewers. OK, maybe it falls behind IPA and Stouts but I would bet that at some point in your brewing career you have crafted one. APA can be a difficult style to master though as brewing them really is an exercise in balance and finesse. I have heard brewery owner’s comment on how creating an APA can be a good test of a new (or prospective) employees brewing chops. Sure their new brewer can create exciting experimental styles but how do they do when it comes to this old classic? It’s kind of like a good chef being able to make a quality omelet.Hops Pic

There are a few moving parts to an APA. The first, and arguably most important, is the hop character. You need to hit a good level of hop bitterness while not going into IPA territory. One metric that helps keep you in the correct range is the bittering units to gravity units (BU:GU) ratio. This ratio is simply your IBUs divided by the last three digits of your OG. For me that sweet spot for an APA is between 0.7 and 0.8. The other end of the hop character equation is hop flavor and aroma.  I like to get at least half of my bittering from late hops and even lightly dry hop to really get the point across. This is where you need to be careful. Since you are working with a lower gravity beer, excess late process hops can lead to grassy flavors.

For the malt bill I generally like to use American 2-row with about 10% Munich and 5% C40. The Munich adds a subtly bready character and the C40 obviously a caramel character. This is another area where finesse is key. You want to create some malt complexity without taking away from drinkability or distracting from the hop character. If you overdo it with the caramel malt you can easily create a muddled APA. Use restraint here! Instead of using 2-row and Munich you could also try using 90% Maris Otter to get a similar effect. Additionally I like to use 5% carapils to help with body and head retention but you could also try using malted white wheat instead.

Water chemistry has a profound impact on an APA and this style greatly benefits from high levels of sulfate. I like to go all the way up to 300 ppm to make the beer very crisp and accentuate the hop character. Yeast should generally be neutral but sometimes I enjoy blending WLP 090 with an English strain to get a hint of fruity esters. This plays particularly well with new world fruity hops.

When I brew this APA I always keep the grain bill, water, and (usually) yeast the same but use different hops for each batch. The recipe below uses a blend of Belma, Amarillo, and Cascade but you can substitute any hop combination you want so long as you pay attention to your BU:GU. This recipe is also great for experimenting with new hop varieties by simply using one type.

I hope this recipe gets you closer to brewing that perfect APA! Feel free to comment below with questions or let me know what hop or yeast combinations you find enjoyable. You can follow all my brewing adventures on social media @hungusbrews and if you ever find yourself brewing one of my recipes, feel free to use #hungusbrews. Cheers!

Hand Stand Happy Hour

2008 10A – American Pale Ale  2015 18B – American Pale Ale
Recipe for 6 gallons of post boil

Malts

9 lb / 81.8% US 2-Row (Briess)
1 lb / 9.2% German Munich (Weyermann)
8 oz / 4.5% Carapils (Briess)
8 oz / 4.5% Caramel 40 (Briess)

Hops

20.5 IBU / 0.5 oz 10.4% Belma 60 Min
5.2 IBU / 0.5 oz 10.4% Belma 5 Min
2.5 IBU / 0.5 oz 5.0% Amarillo 5 Min
3.2 IBU / 0.5 oz 6.3% Cascade 5 Min
4.3 IBU / 0.5 oz 10.4% Belma 0 Min
2.1 IBU / 0.5 oz 5.0% Amarillo 0 Min
2.6 IBU / 0.5 oz 6.3% Cascade 0 Min
0 IBU / 0.5 oz 10.4% Belma Dry Hop
0 IBU / 0.5 oz 5.0% Amarillo Dry Hop

Yeast

WLP 090 – San Diego Super Yeast
Feel free to use other neutral yeasts or even blend with English varieties

Water

CA 165 ppm
MG <10 ppm
NA <20 ppm
SO4 305 ppm
CL 53 ppm
HCO3 65 ppm
Alk 54 ppm

Mash

Mash at 151? for 1 hr with a pH of 5.3. Mash out at 168 if your system allows. Sparge with 168? water acidified to under a pH of 6.0.

Boil

Add the bittering hops at 60 min. At 10 min left add your kettle fining (SuperMoss/Irish Moss/Whirlfloc) and your yeast nutrient (I use White Labs WLN-1000). With 5 min left add your second hop addition. At flame out add your last hop addition and whirlpool to create a trub cone. If not whirlpooling and cooling quickly with an immersion chiller you may want to move your late hops to a 10 and 15 min addition.

Fermentation

Rack to fermenter at 66? and ensure the wort is well oxygenated. Pitch at 66? and hold below 68? until fermentation is complete. Once fermentation is nearing 90% completion, add your dry hops and let fermentation finish. After 3-4 days, cold crash slowly to 40? and rack into keg or bottle.

Measurements and Calculations

Wort Volume Before Boil: 7.0 US gals
Wort Volume After Boil: 6 US gals
Volume Transferred: 5.5 US gals
Volume Of Finished Beer: 5 US gals
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.043 SG
OG: 1.051 SG
FG: 1.010 SG
ABV: 5.4 %
IBU (Rager): 40.4 IBU
Color (Morey): 5.7 SRM
Mash Efficiency: 75 %
Fermentation Temp: 68 ?F

KolschOne of the things that has kept me from posting more recipes on this blog was the level of detail that I was providing. I attempted to capture ALL of the little details beginning on brew day following through to pouring out of the kegerator. While that was all well and good it dawned on me that posting my recipes in that manner may be making it harder for anyone to actually use them! So this is going to be my first recipe post that is simple and straightforward so that you can grab it and brew! I decided to scale them down to 5 gallon batches so that it would serve the largest amount of homebrewers.Adding the Hops

All recipes will be designed so that you end up with 5.5 gallons in the fermenter, 6 at the end of the boil, and 7 or 7.5 at the start of the boil depending on wether it calls for a 60 or 90 min boil. I will also include the grain percentages for easy scaling and a water profile that I like to use. For hops I will specify the IBU obtained from each addition so that you can adjust based on your alpha percentage. For hopping you will notice that my late additions always pick up a small amount of bitterness. This is because I go through a 15 min hot whirlpool before racking into the fermenter. My hope is that this will provide a great starting point that can be easily modified to work with your brewing system and style.

Weyerman Pils

Todays recipe is for another classic German style that I love brewing and have had a lot of success with. Some notable awards this recipe has won include a best of show at the Kinckerbocker Battle of the Brews and a 1st place in the 2014 NHC 1st round NY region. The key to brewing Kölsch (as with many beers) is the yeast selection and fermentation. White Labs 029 German Ale/Kölsch yeast is the one I have used with this recipe but I would also recommend trying East Coast Yeast ECY21. Kölsch yeast likes to be fermented in the low 60’s. You will likely notice a lot of sulphur during fermentation but don’t panic this is normal. This yeast strain is also slow to flocculate out so a month or so at lager temps really helps clean this beer up. I think this cold condition period is key to the style. I like to use some late addition hops for just a hint of that noble hop character. Water chemistry is also very important for this style. You want to hit a mash ph at the lower end of the recommended range. I shoot for 5.3 at room temperature. Since you want this beer to have a crisp and dry finish, a sulfate to chloride ratio of 1.2 is a good place to start. I usually shoot for about 75ppm of sulfate. Calcium above 50 will help with clarity during the cold conditioning period.

Here is the recipe:

German Kölsch

6C – German Kölsch
Recipe for 6 gallons of post boil

Malts

9 lb/85.7% German Pilsner
12 oz/7.1% German Wheat
12 oz/7.1% Carafoam

Hops

18 IBU/1 oz 4.5% German Spalt Select 60 Min
2 IBU/1oz 4.5% German Spalt Select 0 Min

Yeast

WLP 029 – German Ale

Water

CA 70
MG <10
NA <20
SO4 75
CL 60
HCO3 0
SO4/CL 1.2

Mash

Mash at 149* for 1 hr with a pH of 5.3. Mash out at 168 if your system allows. Sparge with 168* water acidified to your mash pH.

Boil

Use a 90 minute boil to remove any DMS from the German pilsner malt. Add the bittering hops at 60 min. At 10 min left add your kettle fining (I use SuperMoss HB) and your yeast nutrient (I use White Labs WLN-1000). At flame out add your finishing hops and whirlpool to create a trub cone. If not whirl poling you may want to move your late hops to a 10 min addition. Instead of using a traditional German hop at the end of the boil you may try a fruity new world variety such as Motueka. Those work well with the subtly fruity esters from fermentation.

Fermentation

Rack to fermenter at 62* and ensure the wort is well oxygenated. Pitch at 62* and hold below 64* until fermentation is complete. Cold crash slowly to 40* and lager for one month.

Measurements and Calculations

Wort Volume Before Boil: 7.5 US gals
Wort Volume After Boil: 6 US gals
Volume Transferred: 5.5 US gals
Volume Of Finished Beer: 5 US gals
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.039 SG
OG: 1.049 SG
FG: 1.012 SG
ABV: 4.9 %
IBU (Rager): 20 IBU
Color (Morey): 3 SRM
Mash Efficiency: 75 %
Fermentation Temp: 64 ?F

Trub Pile post whirlpool Coming to a Boil

Not sure we could have fit any more hops!

Not sure we could have fit any more hops!

Brewing IPA’s is not my strong suit. Give me malt forward beers all day long and I will knock them out of the park. That being said, I was glad my friend Mungus coerced me into brewing 15 gallons of one for his wedding. I couldn’t say no and I needed the brewing practice. Just because I prefer to drink malt forward beers I still need to be a master of the hops. To make things even more interesting, I had just upgraded to a 15 gallon brew kettle and this was its maiden voyage. I and no idea what my boil off would be, how my hop utilization would be affected, if my volumes were accurate, etc. And to top it all off, we did a double brew day and made 10 gallons of a Flanders Red before hand. Nothing like a brew day challenge.

Mungus Owning the hops

Mungus Owning the hops

To move between 10 and 15 gallons (and even 5) I like to think of the malt bill in percentages. This is why I always include them in my recipes. It is much easier to scale between volumes when working in percentages than in strict pounds. Hops are a little trickier. Bittering is easy as you can adjust for IBU’s but for flavor and aroma you just use your “brewers intuition”. In reality though, calculated IBU ratios can still work for flavor and aroma additions they just don’t adjust as precisely.

Mungus and Hungus

Mungus and Hungus

When I have brew hop forward beers I like to do a two step hop whirlpool. One hot whirlpool addition and one cold whirlpool addition. So basically I only add a “small” amount of bittering hops at the beginning of the boil then hit it hard once the flame is out. This helps to keep from volatilizing off all of the hop aromatics. The cold whirlpool acts as a hop back would by doing a cold steep. For dry hopping, I like to do two short (3-5 day) additions. The first is always near the end of fermentation (about 90% to terminal gravity) right in the fermenter. This ensures that there are still some convection currents at work in the fermenter that will help to fully mix the hops. The second addition I can also do in the conical once I dump the first addition and yeast. If you don’t have a conical, this is where you would do them in a secondary or in a keg.

So here is the recipe. Take note of the sugar addition (dryness) and the aggressive water chemistry (accentuate hops):

 

Dank Love IPA (Batch Number 154)

14B –American IPA
Recipe for 16.5 gallons Post Boil

Malts/Sugars

16 lb/43.8%  Breiss 2-row
14 lb/38.4%  Weyerman German Pilser
3 lb/8.2%      Breiss Carapils
1.5lb/4.1%    Breiss Caramel 60L
2 lb/5.5%      Dextrose Sugar

Hops

12 ml  Hop Extract   40IBU 60 Min
2.5 oz Simcoe          14.5% 0 Min
2.5 oz Citra              15.1% 0 Min
2.5 oz Centennial     10.1% 0 Min
3 oz    Simcoe           14.5% -25 Min
3 oz    Citra               15.1% -25 Min
3 oz    Centennial     10.1% -25 Min
2 oz    Simcoe          14.5% In Fermenter
2 oz   Citra               15.1% In Fermenter
2 oz   Centennial     10.1% Dry Hop
2 oz   Citra               15.1% Dry Hop

Yeast

Conan Yeast cultured from Heady Topper can.

Water

Strike: 11 gal, 41.8g caso4, 8.8g cacl2
Sparge: 12 gal, 45.6g caso4, 9.6g cacl2, 2.9 ml phosphoric 85%

CA 312
MG 7
NA 23
SO4 283
CL 51
HCO3 109

Mash Schedule

Single Infusion at 149 for 60 min reserving caramel malt. Add caramel malt and mash out to 168.

Measurements and Calculations

Wort Volume Before Boil: 18.75 US gals
Wort Volume After Boil: 16.5 US gals
Volume Transferred: 15.75 US gals
Volume Of Finished Beer: 15.00 US gals
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.046 SG
OG: 1.062 SG
FG: 1.013 SG
Apparent Attenuation: 78 %
ABV: 6.5 %
IBU (Rager): 100+ IBU
Color (Morey): 7 SRM
Mash Efficiency: 68 %
Mash pH: 5.65
Fermentation Temp: 68 ?F
Fast ferment test: 1.011

Process Notes

Mashed at 149 with no recirculation since I was doing a double batch with my friend Mungus. 75 min into the mash we started the recirculation and raised mash temp to 168 for mash out. Held a slow sparge and lauter but still had a low efficiency. This was very likely due to pre crush that Mungus brought from Morebeer. My crush is always a bit finer. We added the caramel at the start recirculation to keep the mash ph in the proper range although it ended up being high at 5.65.

Hops into the kettle

Hops into the kettle

We used 12ml hop shot (hop extract) to achieve 40 IBU at 60 min. Added water pre boil to hit starting volume. Boiled down 2.25 gal. Had to add DME to get gravity back up. Sugars added at 10 min along with nutrient and Super Moss HB. At flame out added the first charge of hops and whirlpooled for 15 min. Cooled wort down to 75 over 10 min and added second charge of hops. Continued whirlpool for 15 min. Stopped whirlpool and racked to fermenter at 66*.

Pitched 700 ml of slurry harvested from previous batch in conical. Serious fermentation action by next morning. Day 4 down to 1.027. Day 7 still fermenting but slowing. Strong hop aroma. Day 8 ferm very slow and gravity at 1.016. Added 4 oz dry hop directly into fermenter. Day 11. Gravity 1.013. Dumped 1250 ml trub from bottom dump. Added 4 oz dry hop directly into conical. Cooled to 60 for three days on the second hop addition. Did a quick 12 hr cold crash. Filled three kegs.

Tasting Notes

At three weeks old this was one of the best IPA’s I had ever made. It had a wonderfully smooth hop bitterness that really sold me on using hop extract. The hop flavors and aroma balanced very nicely with the fruity esters from the Heady Topper yeast. There were huge notes of Citrus and Apricot. The beer had an amazingly bright clarity for an IPA. We served 10 gallons of this at Mungus’s wedding and it was one of the first beers to go. The keg I had on tap at home didn’t last long at all either. All 15 gallons was probably gone before it was 5 weeks old.

IPA turned to Butterscotch

IPA turned to Butterscotch

I bottled a 6 pack to enter in local competitions and boy did I get a surprise. At about the 9 week mark, something happened to those bottles that turned the beer into a Diacetyl bomb. When I got my scoresheet back from the competition I immediately cracked one of the 4 I had left certain that they had judged the wrong beer. Sure enough the same feedback I had gotten on that scoresheet matched what was in the bottles in my basement. The beer turned very hazy, darkened, and threw down a large sediment. I am still baffled as to how such a bright, lightly colored beer going into the bottles threw this of flavor. My guess is that it was an infection from the recycled yeast or possibly my original culture from the Heady Topper can did not get a pure strain. I plan to scrap the yeast I have on a slant and go in search of ECY29 as the pure culture. So it goes. At least we enjoyed the hell out of this before it turned!

Cheers!

-Hungus

Springtime Schwarz

Springtime Schwarz

I have always had a passion for traditional German beers. Maybe it is my German Heritage (my last name is Weiss after all) or maybe it is the fact that the first craft beers I enjoyed came from a German oriented brewery, The Weeping Radish. Either way, I cannot deny my love for the German beer styles. One style that I had yet to try brewing at home was a Schwarzbier or Black Beer which can be thought of as a black pilsner. My friend Joe and I decided to tackle this one together and split the batch. We decided that we wanted a version that had a bigger malt presence than simply a pilsner with debittered black malt so we chose to add about 30% Munich with a touch of caramunich and chocolate.  To help draw out this malt complexity we performed a double decoction mash.

Joe and I doing a decoction

Joe and I doing a decoction

Decoction mashing is probably one of the most fun things a home brewer can do on a brew day. A decoction is done by removing a small amount of you mash (wort and grain) from your mash tun, placing in another pot, heating to a boil, and then returning to the main mash. This allows you to move through different temperature steps without having a directly heated mash tun.  The volume of mash to be pulled is determined by temperature change you are trying to achieve. You can perform multiple decoctions to move through different temperatures. For this batch Joe and I used a hybrid decoction/recirculation mash schedule to move through 4 different temperatures. This really helps to develop a rich and complex malt profile through breaking up the starch granules in the grains allowing more enzyme contact. There is some debate in the brewing world about the need for decoctions with the highly modified malt we have access to these days. My take is that the process is fun, the smells emanating from that decoction pot are enchanting, and I enjoy the malt flavors that are developed.

Here is our recipe with details about the decoction in the process notes.

 German Schwarzbier (Batch Number 149)

4C – Schwarzbier (Black Beer)
Recipe for 11.5 gallons Post Boil

Malts

13 lb/62.7%   Weyerman German Pilsner
6 lb/28.9%     Weyerman German Munich
1 lb/4.8%      Breiss Blackprinz
8 oz/2.4%     Weyerman Caramunich II
4 oz/1.2%     Breiss Chocolate Malt

Hops

1.6 oz German Northern Brewer     10.7 %          60 Min

Yeast

WLP 830 – German Lager

Water

Strike: 7 gal, 1.8g caso4, 3.5g cacl2, 1.4 ml phosphoric 85%
Sparge: 9.5 gal, 2.4g caso4, 4.8g cacl2, 4.1 ml phosphoric 10%
CA 72
MG 7
NA 23
SO4 52
CL 66
HCO3 62

Mash Schedule

Strike at 131° and hold for 10 min. Raise by decoction to 149° and hold for 40 min. Raise by decoction to 158° and hold for 20 min. Mash out to 168° by recirculation.

Measurements and Calculations

Wort Volume Before Boil: 13.0 US gals
Wort Volume After Boil: 11.5 US gals
Volume Transferred: 10.75 US gals
Volume Of Finished Beer: 10.0 US gals
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.047 SG
OG: 1.052 SG
FG: 1.013 SG
Apparent Attenuation: 74 %
ABV: 5.2 %
IBU (Rager): 30 IBU
Color (Morey): 24 SRM
Mash Efficiency: 79 %
Mash pH: 5.44
Fermentation Temp: 53 ?F
Fast ferment test: 1.010

Process Notes

Mashed in to stabilize at 131?. Held for 10 min then pulled a 2 gal thick decoction. Took that directly to boil over 13 min and forgot to pause for 5 min at 158?. Held at boil for 10 min. Meanwhile, stopped recirculation but heated HLT for next step at 149. Added decoction back and restarted recirculation for 30 min to hold at 149?. PH measured 5.44 @72?. After 30 min pulled a 1.25 gal thin decoction and brought to 158? for 5 min, then brought to a boil over 13 min. Held at boil for 10 min. Meanwhile, stopped recirculation but heated HLT for next step at 158?. Added decoction back and restarted recirculation for 20 min. Then raised temp through recirculation to 168? mash out.

Ran a 25 min lauter and a 15 min sparge. Hit 13 gal but gravity was high at 1.050. Added 0.5 gal water to dilute to 1.047. Ran a vigorous boil for 90 min. Hops added at 60. Added Supermoss HB and Wyeast nutrient at 10 min. Boiled off almost 2 gal so added another half gal with 10 min left. OG was 1.053. Final boil PH was 5.21.Ran through plate chiller to conical at 54?.

Filling kegs

Filling kegs

Oxygenated with O2 stone for 3 min. Pitched 1L of slurry from a series of starters. Approx cell count was 650 billion. Started forced ferment test. Pitched at 54 and dropped temp down to 53 by next morning and held there. Solid fermentation action within 24 hr. Heavy fermentation action at 48 hr and smelling strongly of sulphur. Fast ferment test came in at 1.010. FFT tasted offensively phenolic from high ferm temp and oxidation. Forgot to measure pH. Day 3 gravity was 1.037. Day 4 hit 1.021 and ramped temp to 62 over 24 hr and held for diacetyl rest. Day 6 hit 1.014 and continued to hold at 62. Day 7 started 24 hr cold crash. Held at 35 for 1 week. Most of the yeast dropped out. Racked into two kegs. Lagered for 6 weeks at 35?. Carbonated to 2.5 vol co2.

Tasting Notes

Schwarz in the sun

Schwarz in the sun

The appearance on this beer is awesome. It is dark brown with ruby highlights and holds a nice tan head. Clarity is excellent. Aroma has strong notes of Munich breadiness with very light roast and is lightly sweet. The flavor is dominated by the Munich malt with a whisper of sweetness from the caramel and chocolate. I think using almost 30% Munich coupled with the decoction made this beer a little larger than I wanted for a Schwarz. Next time I make this I will either skip the decoction or cut the Munich down to about 10%. I like the blackprinz as an American substitute for carafa special as it seemed to impart a smoother roast character.

Saison and the Owls

Saison and the Owls

Sometimes I decide on what recipe to brew based on ingredients I have kicking around. Maybe I have a sack of Maris Otter so I will brew a streak of British Beers or a lot of american hops so I’ll do a streak of IPA’s.  In this case, I had a container of ECY30 Brettanomyces naardenensis that I bought from Al at a home-brew club meeting and some Danstar Belle Saison dry yeast packets given out at the National Homebrew Conference. These two yeasts could work very well together so I came up with a saison recipe based loosely on some rye saisons The Mad Fermentationist has over on his blog. For the base beer malt selection the rye adds some color and a subtle spiciness, the wheat should help with head retention, and the pale would result in a fuller malt flavor.

Saison aging with Brett

Saison aging with Brett

Overall I was really impressed with the performance of the Belle Saison yeast. I rehydrated the two packets, pitched into 68* wort, and had fermentation activity within 30 hrs. I set the BCS controller to slowly ramp the beer up to 75* over 3 days and then hold there. The beer finished off at 1.006 with a great balance of dryness and sweet fermentation esters. The rye was definitely background and I would go up to 30% if I really wanted to have it as a prominent flavor. I kegged 5 gallons of the beer and the other 5 gallons I racked into a glass carboy and pitched the Brett. It has been aging for about three months now and I plan to give it another three before sampling.

Saison with Rye (Batch Number 146)

16C – Saison
Recipe for 11.5 gallons Post Boil

Malts

9 lb/43.9% Dingemans Belgian Pilsner
6 lb/28.6% Breiss Pale Ale
4 lb/19% Breiss Rye
2 lb/9.5% Weyerman German Wheat

Hops

3 oz Slovenian Styrian Goldings 3.8 % 60 Min
2 oz Slovenian Styrian Goldings 3.5 % 10 min

Yeast

Danstar Belle Saison Dry Yeast – 2 Packets
East Coast Yeast ECY 30 Brett Naardenesis – 1 vial

Mash pH measurement

Mash pH measurement

Water

Strike: 7 gal, 3.5g caso4, 2.1g cacl2, 57.4 ml phosphoric 10%
Sparge: 9.25 gal, 4.6g caso4, 2.8g cacl2, 51.4 ml phosphoric 10%
CA 106
MG 10
NA 3
SO4 66
CL 29
HCO3 0

Mash Schedule

Strike at 131 and hold for 10 min. Raise heat to 149 and hold for 40 min. Mash out to 168. All temperature increases via recirculation and heating HLT.

Measurements and Calculations

Wort Volume Before Boil:13.00 US gals
Wort Volume After Boil:11.5 US gals
Volume Transferred:10.75 US gals
Volume Of Finished Beer:10.00 US gals
Pre-Boil Gravity:1.050 SG
OG:1.056 SG
FG:1.006 SG
Apparent Attenuation:88.8 %
ABV:6.6 %
IBU(Rager):28 IBU
Color (Morey): 4 SRM
Mash Efficiency:83.6 %
Mash pH: 5.35
Fermentation Temp: 75 ?F
Fast ferment test: 1.005

Process Notes

Measured the Mash pH at 5.36 at 78? 14 min into the mash. Ran a slow lauter and sparge and collected 13 gal of wort.

Rolling 90 min boil. Added bittering hops 30 min into boil. Added ½ tsp rehydrated Supermoss HB and 1 tsp Wyeast nutrient at 10 min. After 90 min, whirlpooled in boil kettle for 5 min then shut off pump to let settle. Racked into conical (first batch in conical) at 65*.

Filling the Conical post boil. This was its maiden voyage.

Filling the Conical post boil. This was its maiden voyage.

Used Danstar Belle Saison dry yeast that I got for free at the National Homebrew Conference in Philadelphia. Oxygenated wort for 2min. Redydrated both packets and pitched into wort. Active fermentation within 30 hrs. After 10 days cold crash to 35 degrees and let settle for 3 more days. Rack under pressure into one keg and the other 5 gallons I racked into a 5 gallon glass carboy. Pitched oen vial of ECY30 into carboy and let sit at room temperature. Carbonated keg at 3 vol CO2.

Tasting Notes

The carboy has been aging on Brett for almost three months now and I will let it go another three before tasting. Al Buck from East Coast Yeast recommends giving this Brett some time to age. The kegged batch is almost gone but has been very enjoyable. A lot of this beer is about the fermentation and I would definitely use this dry yeast again! It dried the beer out nicely while not being too dry because there are plenty of sweet alcohols and esters to balance. The rye and pale malt work very well together for a subtle complexity. Its going to be tough waiting another three months to taste the brett version.